Beginner's Korean Skincare Routine: Dehydrated Combination-Oily Skin Type

You know how y'all tin last inwards the middle of working on something, too and so y'all discovery yourself helping out with a enquiry that y'all response so regularly that y'all wishing y'all had something y'all could only shipping them instead of hurriedly too badly explaining things?

That's the hijack reason inspiration for today's post.  Before nosotros acquire started, I would only similar to remind everyone that I am non a medical professional person too the thoughts inwards this post service are purely based off my ain personal experience too approach to skincare.

Image from my Multi-Step Korean Skincare Routine: Winter/Spring 2015 post.  I also have got an Updated Summer 2015 Routine Post for a hot-season example.
So hither nosotros go: if y'all have got Dehydrated, Combo-Oily pare similar me, this post's for you, pare twin.

In this post:
  • The showtime step: discovery your pare type
  • Dehydrated: the hidden pare type
  • Clearing the way: ditch 'The Shell'
  • Build your routine: splurge on water, skimp on oil
  • Find your Blogger pare twin: a listing of routines yesteryear pare type
The basics of whatsoever routine are, inwards my opinion: cleanser, moisturizer, too sunscreen.  But when y'all have got Dehydrated or Combination pare (or both), your pare isn't probable to autumn inwards dearest with a unmarried moisturizer, leaving y'all with an extra footstep needed (or several) when it comes to edifice a base of operations routine.

I've to a greater extent than or less made peace with my Dehydrated & Combination pare too its quirky preferences, too I wanted to portion it with my pare twins out there.

The showtime step: discovery your pare type

This tin last tricky.  You tin Google how to discovery your pare type, which volition last a skillful start if y'all are starting from scratch on your skincare journey, or fifty-fifty have got it professionally assessed if y'all tin afford it.

However, I have got noticed that most people who discovery themselves falling inwards dearest with a Korean (or Asian) skincare routine are already interested inwards skincare too looking to accept it to the side yesteryear side level.  Therefore, they're already familiar with their pare type too how it reacts to products.

Traditional western definitions unremarkably include the next pare types:
  • Dry: lacking inwards oil/sebum, unremarkably genetic or equally a effect of environmental factors including medications
  • Oily: excessive production of sebum, oft resulting inwards large pores, sebaceous filaments, blackheads, too acne
  • Combination: a combination of the inwards a higher house types on unlike areas of the skin, oft an Oily T-zone too Dry U-zone
  • Normal: balanced, neither Dry nor Oily.
If you're wondering what I hateful yesteryear "U-zone", here's the T-zone inwards green and the U-zone inwards blue, which is a mutual distribution of Combination pare type oily too dry out zones, respectively:

Who knew my snowfall stickers could come upwardly inwards handy for things other than expressing my feelings virtually sail masks?
This isn't e'er the case, equally y'all tin have got oily too dry out areas inwards whatsoever area, but many people with Combination pare have got this pattern.

You volition also discovery additional concerns such as Sensitive and Acne-Prone listed inwards western pare type guides, but these also tin last modifiers to the inwards a higher house base of operations types so I believe that's why the inwards a higher house iv are considered the base of operations types inwards western definitions.

But what if your pare is perpetually dry out too oily at the same time, with dry out flakes nestled side yesteryear side to, or on locomote yesteryear of, clogged pores too blemishes?  What if the to a greater extent than creams y'all apply, the to a greater extent than oily too clogged your pare becomes, but you're withal a flake monster?  What if you're trying to command your sebum with oil-free products, but your pare feels flaky too tight?

Dehydrated: the hidden pare type

Congratulations too sympathies, because you're likely a Dehydrated pare type similar me.  Don't cry, though, because tears are pH 7[disrupt your acid mantle.  Huehuehue. #nerdjokes *smacks self so y'all don't have got to*


Hanbang inwards action: koreatimes.co.kr
Luckily for us, Korean skincare is already gear upwardly to handgrip our pare type, too inwards fact they've been ahead of the game for ... centuries?

Korean skincare is real much influenced yesteryear traditional Asian medicine (Hanbang, aka traditional Korean herbal medicine, is inwards at to the lowest degree 50% of the products inwards my routine) too thence the marrow theme of balance is carried into the Korean skincare philosophy equally well.

Just equally Asian herbal medicine focuses on the residue betwixt yin too yang, mutual frigidity too hot, etc, Korean skincare strives to have got a residue of water too oil inwards the skin.

Lemme tell that again: water, non only oil, may demand to last added to the skin, too both demand to last inwards residue for healthy, well-adjusted skin. 

This is where the low-cal of illumination broke through the clouds of ignorance for me.  *cue refrain from heavenly chorus of enlightenment*   Water, not to a greater extent than oil, powerfulness last what my parched pare needed.

Let at that spot last ... water added to your skin.
In the call of the Snail, amen.
image credit: rgbstock.com
In the west, nosotros acquire that dry pare needs oil, too oily pare needs oil-free products, the end.  Combination pare is a rebel, beingness a fleck of both, but y'all tin avoid putting products on your t-zone too and so only blot upwardly the steady current of sebum seeping from your brow.

If your pare is dry, seat to a greater extent than moisturizer on it, to a greater extent than too to a greater extent than too to a greater extent than ... too if y'all interruption out?  Must last acne-prone.  Use a stronger cleanser, launder to a greater extent than often, or encounter a dermatologist for a prescription or a doc for hormonal regulation.***

***Note: I am inwards no way saying that people should non encounter dermatologists or doctors for those concerns, inwards fact it's my most commonly given skincare advice when asked.  I fifty-fifty wrote a collaboration blog post service virtually it.  My call for hither is that conventional non-medical skincare wisdom inwards the westward had a big, glaring gap when it came to my pare type.

No 1 talked virtually having dehydrated skin, which has a lacking-water problem, non an lacking-oil problem.  If nosotros accept a footstep dorsum too apply it to our bodies; it becomes mutual sense: if y'all are thirsty, should y'all drinkable water, or should y'all drinkable tabular array cream?

Additionally, no affair how much H2O y'all intake, your pare is the terminal inwards business to acquire it, so depending on diverse factors including environment, your pare may last perpetually dehydrated fifty-fifty if you're chugging H2O similar Jack Sparrow drinks rum.

Where ... where has it gone? [image credit: Pirates of the Caribbean Area wikia]


In fact, the to a greater extent than heavy, oily, rich, too occlusive products y'all apply on your flake-festooned face, the to a greater extent than too to a greater extent than dehydrated your pare becomes, because those occlusive products are genuinely forming a barrier to proceed H2O out, perpetuating the cycle. 

But if your pare isn't getting H2O from inside either, what practise y'all do?  Well, nosotros can add it dorsum topically, but showtime we've got to clear or so crud out of the way.


Clearing the way: ditch 'The Shell'

Skin twin, y'all may have got suspected this, but if you've been struggling with both Dehydrated too Oily or Combo-Oily skin, there's real probable to last a disgusting shell of dead pare too + oily sebum that is coating your face.  You've likely noticed that your pare is prone to dead pare construct up, including dry out flakes, amongst greasy too clog-prone skin.  Thus, I have got dubbed this slurry of goo 'The Shell' too we're going to speak virtually how to acquire rid of it.

Your skincare isn't penetrating downward to where it needs to, because The Shell, similar a layer of plaque over your teeth, is obstructing it.  We demand to acquire rid of The Shell, too physical scrubs, equally y'all have got likely noticed, aren't cutting it.

Enter chemical exfoliants ... wait, don't run away!  They're non equally scary equally you'd think.


Actives including acids: picture from my Multi-Step Korean Skincare Routine: Winter/Spring 2015 post
I'll last honest; I was terrified too intimidated yesteryear chemic exfoliants at first.  They're scary!  They're acids that are acid-ing your face!  There are horror stories all over the internet!!   FYI, at that spot are chemic exfoliants, too and so at that spot are chemic peels.  We're talking vino coolers vs 99% rubbing alcohol here.

Think of our pare equally a pot that is caked with the greasy residue from cooking dinner.  Are y'all going to grind away with an abrasive pot scrubber too elbow grease, scratching your pot to hell, or are y'all going to soak the pot inwards or so water + dish lather to soften the crud so y'all tin wipe it away without damaging the surface?  Chemical exfoliants are the latter, too they tin last super gentle.  I promise.

I purpose both beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) too alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) on a regular basis, too it's changed everything.   Everything!

My chemic exfoliant bros: Mizon at left, Cosrx at right.
BHA is oil-soluble, so it tin cutting through the grease on our face, downward into our pores, too soften the hardened goo stuck inwards there.  This allows the sebum to catamenia unobstructed out of the pore, too also gives your cleanser a improve lead chances to create clean excess sebum away. 

AHA is non oil-soluble, but it's splendid at dissolving excess dead pare on the surface of your skin, uncapping your pores so the BHA tin locomote to town, whisking away dry out flakes, lightning hyperpigmentation. 

Currently, I purpose Cosrx's BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, which uses an ultra-gentle shape of BHA called Betaine Salicylate, too Mizon's AHA 8% Peeling Serum, which is Glycolic acid.   However, at that spot are lots of BHA too AHA options out there, too y'all don't have got to purpose Korean products.  If y'all desire to acquire to a greater extent than virtually how to contain acids into your routine, cheque out my post service on Putting your products inwards order, including pH theme acids.

Be warned: acids are 'actives' too volition issue the kraken hidden nether the surface of your skin, so read upwardly on purging too how to position it vs reaction breakouts.

PURGING IS COMING! [mg src immersiononline.net]
So 1 time you've freed your pare from the tyranny of The Shell, it volition last gear upwardly to soak inwards all the goodness your products are gear upwardly to supply.


Build your routine: splurge on water, skimp on oil

Now that the layers of old buildup are out of the way, y'all are costless to focus on re-balancing the missing H2O from your skin.  This is the existent drawback of The Shell; the precious H2O that your pare lacks was unable to penetrate through the greasy sludge that coated your face.

But it's gone now, so it's fourth dimension to locomote difficult on the hydrators.  This is where a multi-step Korean routine obliterates the 'less is more' western approach, inwards my opinion.

Hydrators: picture from my Multi-Step Korean Skincare Routine: Winter/Spring 2015 post
Mmm, hydrating products.  Korean products volition give y'all a bevvy of options that are good for a Dehydrated pare type, including:
  • mists 
  • hydrating toners
  • first essences
  • skins (I know, weird, but it's a type of watery product)
  • essences
  • sheet masks
  • serums
  • ampoules
  • emulsions
  • milks
  • lotions
The inwards a higher house listing is inwards a general order of wateriest-to-oiliest, thinnest-to-thickest, but Korean naming conventions are really, um, 'fluid' too it's non a difficult rule.  Dehydrated pare perk: y'all tin easily charge upwardly on hydrating products without overloading your skin, because it's a thirsty beast.  So when you're looking at diverse blogs, Instagram feeds, too sale PSAs, seeing shiny things y'all desire to buy, this is what happens:

img source: tumblr
    Eyes: That's a pretty thing, nosotros should purchase it.
     Wallet: No, nosotros don-
    Skin: That's a bully idea! I'm thirsty, delight mist me.
     Wallet: Wait, guys, nosotros shou-
    Pragmatism: We are getting pretty depression on that s too third essence inwards our routine ...
     Wallet: We withal have got 2 mists too a serum left ov-
    Skin: True, nosotros are getting low!  I'm thirsty again, delight mist me.
     Wallet: Guys? Can anyone hear m-
    Sense of Adventure: We haven't tried that create before, let's practise this!
     Wallet: Wait, what?! Noo-
    Skin: We only ran out of mist, too I'm thirsty.  More mist please! 
     Wallet: *muffled screaming*

Your (literally) thirsty pare has the capability to slurp upwardly huge quantities of hydrating products, fierce through products at a rapid charge per unit of measurement too ensuring that your wallet is perpetually on burn but the upside is that y'all tin justify a constant current of novel pretties to try?

Like a gentle saltation rain, a Korean routine volition apply layer later layer of watery hydration, allowing your thirsty pare to soak upwardly what it needs.

As I advert in Putting your products inwards order, including pH theme acids, y'all layer from wateriest-to-oiliest, thinnest-to-thickest.  If y'all have got a Combination pare type, avoid layering the oilier products inwards your oily areas too proceed them to your dry out areas, but the watery products tin last layered all over.

When your pare feels hydrated enough, stop.  It's that simple.  If that way that y'all terminate upwardly with a routine that has a mist, a hydrating toner, a showtime essence, 2 regular essences, a serum, an ampoule, too and so sealed inwards with an emulsion, but no moisturizer, so last it.

Wait, no traditional moisturizers?!

Occlusives: picture from my Multi-Step Korean Skincare Routine: Winter/Spring 2015 post
If y'all don't experience y'all demand it, too so nope.  Occlusives are meant to seal inwards the H2O you've only applied, but y'all tin either purpose real low-cal ones or ones that rely on silicones instead of lipids, if y'all experience that y'all demand them.  If y'all experience y'all need more occlusives, rich creams, or facial oils, yesteryear all way add together them, but equally a Dehydrated pare type, y'all demand to focus on re-hydrating your pare earlier y'all tin assess how much crude needs to last added.

Once y'all have got re-balanced your Dehydrated skin, it volition issue y'all from the tailspin it's likely been inwards for years, too you'll last able to fine-tune your approach.  You may discovery that your Combo-Oily pare is genuinely Combo-Normal, or fifty-fifty Normal-Dry!


Find your Blogger pare twin: a listing of routines yesteryear pare type

Don't have got Dehydrated Combo-Oily pare similar me?  Here's a listing of or so Asian skincare bloggers too their pare types:
Just proceed inwards hear that skincare is extremely personal too what industrial plant for others may non operate for you, but agreement your pare type's full general needs tin genuinely aid when  selecting products to try.

All the best,
-Cat

**Disclaimer: : All products reviewed/mentioned inwards this post service are 100% purchased with my ain coin too my opinions are alone my own.  This weblog contains  both affiliate too non-affiliate links, too clicking the sometime earlier y'all store way that this weblog may have a modest committee to aid inwards this weblog supporting itself.  Please encounter my Contact Info & Disclaimer policy for to a greater extent than information.

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